terry’s trip down the rhine 2019

Never one to sit idly watching the world go by, Terry is off on his bike again this summer.
With his bike carefully packed in a swanky new bike box, he has flown out to Munich for a few days acclimatisation in the mountains before heading to Andermatt to start cycling the Eurovelo 15.
The Eurovelo 15 follows the course of the river Rhine for 1,233 km, from its source at Lake Toma above Andermatt in Switzerland to the Hook of Holland.
He’ll be cycling through 4 countries : Switzerland, Germany, France and The Netherlands.
His plan is to write a regular post to keep us updated on his travels and adventures, so watch this space!

day minus one: 17 june: travel

The Flixbus goes all the way to Chur and allows the eager adventurer the opportunity to travel to his destination in comfort with his bike secured in the luggage hold.

Then it’s a hop onto the train for the final leg up to the Oberalp Pass before cycling the final downhill stretch to Andermatt.

“I rode down from the Oberalp Pass and found I’m booked in for tomorrow night! All my hotel bookings are 1 day later than I thought, so I’m planning to stay here tonight and then cycle my first stage back down the mountain to Chur tomorrow. Then I’ll have a rest day in Chur which will put me back on track with the rest of my bookings. What a dum dum!”

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day one: 18 june: andermatt to chur

Oberalp Pass to Chur: 82 km distance, 540 m climbing

“After discovering I was a day ahead of all my hotel bookings I thought I’d get this killer day done and then stay 2 nights in Chur which would give me a rest day. I also started from the top of the Oberalp pass which is very steep. I know having cycled down yesterday.
The weather is glorious today, too hot really, clear blue skies and absolutely stunning scenery. Still a lot of snow around. Tomorrow I will be bored being a tourist but my date mixup will be sorted and the show will go on.”

Terry in front of the famous lighthouse at the top of the Oberalp pass

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day two: 19 june: rest day

Chur to Landquart and back 34 km

“Another hot day. I wanted to make sure I could find the Rhine route without too much time being wasted tomorrow morning, so as I usually do I entered the destination (Landquart) into my tomtom and specified ” bike route”. However it took me along the road which I followed to Landquart. Very pleasant ride but not the Rhine Route.

Entering Landquart there was a young guy watering flowers on roundabout, I asked him for directions and he sent on my way. At the station I picked up the route and rode back to the hotel.

Tomorrow should be an easy start, what the rest of the day brings goodness only knows.”

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day three: 20 june: chur to romanshorn

121 km distance, 316 m ascent

“There was a big thunderstorm last night in Chur, really heavy rain. Eight bikers from Newcastle arrived at the hotel I was staying at. They are doing the big cols. They asked about the weather and were told that it was likely to rain.

I started early, just after 8, hoping that I would get as far as possible before the rain. After cycling over 80kms, I was approaching St Martheretine when it started to rain. It wasn’t too bad at first but then the heavens opened and I still had about another 40kms to go. I donned my rain gear but still got soaked! By this time I was cycling along the Bodensee but could not see it. Finally arrived at my destination but went straight past. It took 15mins to find my lodgings but at last I found it.

The Gasthof Neuhaus is best describe as quaint. They have 2 rooms and a shared bathroom. All the locals come to meet and have a beer. The food is excellent and so cheap compared with Chur. I’ll be paying about a third of what it cost me in Chur.

I’m out of the mountains now so the route should be much flatter, tomorrow I go to Waldshut which is on the German side of the Rhine. I hope the weather will be better….”

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day four: 21 june: romanshorn to waldshut

113 km distance, 580 m climbing

“”Another 8am start. The weather looked ok, but I thought I would get away promptly in case of afternoon thunderstorms.

I rode along the side of the lake for some time and then a guy caught up and we started chatting. 51 year old Marco from Rotterdam is on holiday for 6 days so he’s cycling as far as he can before he has to catch the train back. We cycled together until the Rhein falls then I said I was stopping for a sandwich. He pushed on, he has to do a bigger daily distance than me.

The houses are great to look at but I wondered how much they would cost to maintain…

There were lots of cyclists along the way, particularly by the Bodensee and again at the Rheinfalls. I saw very few in the afternoon when it was mainly through fields and villages away from the Rhine.

I arrived at the hotel at 3.30, just in time for the reception opening. It’s a nice hotel and I only have to go about 300 m to a recommended restaurant for dinner.”

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day five: 22 june: waldshut to neuenberg am rhein

108 km distance, 315 m ascent

“The hotel in Waldshut didn’t serve breakfast until 8am so I didn’t start until about 8.45.

It rained all day. It was a day of head down and endure.

Several times I asked myself, “what am I doing here!” My glasses were rain spattered, making it difficult to see the road signs so I had to stop at virtually each junction which slowed me down , getting wetter as a result. I missed a couple of the turnings and had to ask to put me on the right route.

All in all a miserable day, I was pleased to arrive at my hotel.

Once I’d cleaned up and recharged all my devices, I went to dinner where I had my first Zander, a nice meal.

Tomorrow my destination is Strasbourg, I wonder whether I’ll see any of the MEPs, even Nigel….

I hope it’s dry tomorrow, next week it’s forecast to be very hot – supposedly 38c – too hot for 100kms a day!”

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day six: 23 june: neuenberg to strasbourg

124 km distance, 141 m going up, not really climbing.

“Got away a bit earlier this morning and the guy at the hotel took me round the back and put me on the right track so no delay route finding.

Rode the German side of the Rhine all day. The downside was it was a cinder and gravel track all the way. It slows you up by about 3 to 5 km per hour, the tyres feel as if they are being held rather than running freely. However no delays for route finding.

No rain today. The weather in the morning was ideal, overcast and not too hot, in the afternoon the sun came out and it was warm. However if it stays like this it will be Ok.

After 81kms I was hungry and came across a moored restaurant, so I stopped there and had a snack. Coming out someone had moved my bike and had laid it down with the derailliers on the ground. My chain had jammed and it took me a few minutes and some dirty hands to get it back again.

Got to Strasbourg about 4.45pm after taking a while to find the hotel. I ate out at a pizzeria as the hotel doesn’t do dinners.

I’m expecting a nightmare tomorrow getting out of Strasbourg, but we’ll see, I’ll be travelling on the French side so hopefully the surface will be better.”

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day seven: 24 june: strasbourg to worth am rhein

86.5 km distance, 128 m of up (not climbing)

“I started early as it was forecast to be hot.

I followed the French side and the route wasn’t along the side of the Rhine, but took me through lots of large villages almost all called something-heim.

Just before a village called Munchausen, a guy caught up with me and it was Marco, the Dutch lad whom I met on Friday when cycling along the Bodensee. To say I was surprised is an under statement, I thought he would have been miles in front. We had a quick sandwich in Munchausen and peddled on together until eventually he took a turning to Karlsruhe, about 12 km before Worth.

We exchanged email addresses and promised to keep in touch. You never know I may meet up with him again.

The hotel here is good and I arrived at 1.30, so a rest day for me.

The forecast for tomorrow is hotter than today. I think it’s a similar distance as today, so breakfast is served at 6.30 and I’ll try to get away by 7am.”

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day eight: 25 june: worth am rhein to worms

109 km distance, 135m going up

“The guy on reception in last nights hotel in Worth am Rhein asked me for my passport at check in. When I went down for a beer after cleaning up and writing my blog, a young guy brought me my beer and asked me where I had started out. I explained that I’d cycled from Strasbourg that morning, but that I’d actually cycled all the way from Andermatt.

He was impressed, I was told a little later that they all knew my age and the young guy said that nearly every one has an e-bike and only go about 80 kms.

Today was hot, I started at 7.20 and the route to Ludwigshafen was straightforward but the last 30 kms was a nightmare. No signs so I had to get the tomtom out to find the way . I was praying that the battery would not run out, it survived and I arrived at my hotel here in Worms at 2.50 pm. The route took me through fields and forests where the track surface was good and I kept up a good pace. However I haven’t seen much of the Rhein today.

This hotel I’m staying tonight is on the side of the Rhein so tomorrow I’ll have a easy start. Just now walking back to my room there were 2 bikes parked outside a room, and a guy unloading his panniers. He and his wife had just started, they lived inland from the Rhein and knew the area well . They said tomorrow’s route is beautiful and the day after is also very beautiful. I’m looking forward to the next 2 days.”

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day nine: 26 june: worms to bingen am rhein

94.8 km distance, 136 m going up

“Hot! hot! hot!

I started at 7.22 and even at that hour it was hot. The first 10 km were through industrial factories and huge loading facilities. Either on to barges or lorries. What they were moving I’m not sure. Once or twice I turned the wrong way and nearly end up being put on a river barge, I thought if it were going down river it would save me a few miles of pedaling.

Back to reality, I cleared the industrial area and made good progress up to Mainz which was 60 km under my belt. I was cycling along with the Rhein on my right until I reached Mainz, where the route was fenced off at the bottom of a bridge. Workmen were sitting on the steps leading up to the bridge, so I asked them if there was any way around the blockage. Unfortunately there wasn’t, the only option was to go up the steps and over the bridge. I took my pannier bags off, the bike is too heavy to carry up with the bags still attached. I left the bags with the workmen while I struggled up with my bike. I was almost at the top when one of the younger guys came up with my bags. I thanked him profusely!

It was a long bridge and I hadn’t bargained for this in my route planning. After studying the map I worked out I could go along the north side of the Rhine, but would need to find another bridge or ferry to get back across to the south side of the river to Bingen where I was staying the night.

I asked several times as I cycled along and eventually was told there was a ferry at Rudesheim which would take me across to Bingen. I got to Rudesheim and found a ferry with Bingen marked only to be told that I had to get the car ferry, a further 700 m along.

When I arrived the ferry was just pulling in, so I had a short 10 minutes to wait while they discharged the lorries and cars and I was onboard.

The hotel took about 10 mins to find, another riverside location but not as nice as last night. It is one of these big conference hotels, I’m on the 4th floor and the room has plumbing problems. I took a couple of pics with my phone and they offered to change the room but I’m only here for 1 night and the thought of lugging my gear to a different room in this heat was beyond me.

It’s to Andernach tomorrow and the Koln the day after, getting closer!”

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day ten: 27 june: bingen to andernach

94.7 km distance, 169 m going up

“Breakfast was from 6 am, so I got downstairs by 10 mins past and got out the door by 5 past 7. The sign to St Goar, 29 km along my route, was almost outside the hotel. I set off only to meet another sign after about 1.5 km telling me to go back. Back I went and looked at the first sign more carefully. Sure enough, it pointed in a slightly different direction. So I finally started on the right route at 7.23 am!

The route followed the side of the Rhein until Koblenz where another river came from the left. I saw a bridge and cycled towards it. There were no signs, but it wasn’t a huge problem. Mind you there are no signs at all when you do need them.

Today would have been nice and easy, but there was a stiff breeze full in my face all the way. The temperature wasn’t so hot today. This morning was a great temperature for cycling, but when I stopped for a sandwich at noon the temperature soared without the breeze in my face. However I only had an other hour to do, and I found my hotel at 1.05.

Tomorrow I cycle to Koln which should be interesting having been there many times.”

  • Sankt Goar am Lorelei

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day eleven: 28 june: andernach to köln

74 km distance, 137 m going up

“Breakfast didn’t start until 7, so I didn’t get away until 7.50.

The first 18 km was through industrial areas so lots of twists and turns before cycling alongside a busy road.

Eventually I came to Bad Breisig and I asked a taxi driver who was parked if I was going the right way to Bonn. He said yes, but told me it was better to go along the Rhine. He put me back on the right route and thereafter it was plain sailing.

I cleared Bonn, from there Köln was only another 36 km. I had the choice of crossing the Rhein and cycling on the north side which is how it was shown on the map, or as there were signs to Köln along the south side of the river, I elected to stay on the south side.

I was held up by a lorry that came into my path on the track, I just started again when I was overtaken by Marcel and Henry, two Dutch lads who I sat in behind all the way to Köln, arriving at 12 noon.

We were chatting on the way and they certainly made the last 30 km go faster than I would have managed alone. The main difference was they were able to see the signs without losing any speed. Marcel was 48 and Henry must have been a similar age as he had a 16 year old daughter. They were camping and going further on after Köln.

We had a coffee at Starbucks near the barnhof and then we parted ways. I looked for my hotel which was less than 5 minutes to find. It’s a small place and only does breakfast but there are restaurants near the river not far away.

I must try and remember to ask the proprietor if Photokina still takes place…

Tomorrow it’s a short day to Duisburg then into Holland for the last stage.

I think I may catch a train from the Hook of Holland to Imuiden for the ferry home, I’ll see how I feel.”





  • Der Kölner Dom

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day twelve: 29 june: köln to duisburg

91.8 km distance, 167 m going up

“Today I don’t know if I’ve been boiled, fried, or roasted, perhaps all three!”

Getting away from Koln at about 7.45, the first 5 km was on a track next to the river, however the track was blocked by a Ford car factory. There were no signs, so away from the river I turned, then my problems started.

I looked at my map and headed for Dormagen. I cycled into the centre where I bought a couple of sandwiches and asked the directions to Neuss, you can follow the road 9 or it’s much nicer by the side of the Rhein. So off I went in search of this Rhein, after about 3 km I came to the river but there was no track running along side. So it was back another 3 km to pick up the road and with the help of tomtom I carried on to Krefeld. Eventually I found my 4 star Hotel Rheingarten where I was told there was no restaurant, the nearest being 900 metres away. This hotel is by the side of the river but hasn’t the same ambiance as the previous hotels.

Tomorrow I cross into Holland and stay at Nijmegen. I hope the Dutch have marked the route better!”

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day thirteen: 30 june: duisburg to nijmegen

91.5 km distance, 227 m of up

“Got away by 10 to 8 after speaking to a couple of Dutch ladies who were cycling back to Holland. Despite what the guy on reception told me last night, these ladies said I would be able to cycle on the track by the river outside the hotel. It looked ok, so off I went, but after a kilometre sure enough the track ended and I was sent by back into town… I went about 18 km before I picked up signs and within a short distance the track left the river and went through fields eventually rejoining the road.

After that I stuck to the track beside the road, it was a good surface and was about 10 km shorter than the official route.

At one point a guy was watering his llamas and alpacas. I stopped and he offered to hose me down, I declined and we both laughed. It wasn’t until I was a kilometre up the road that I realised I should have taken a photo, but I wasn’t prepared to turn round, sorry!

It hasn’t been quite so hot today. It’s still hot, but not as roasting as yesterday. As I was walking the 900 m for my dinner at 6pm yesterday evening the temperature was still 34 degrees, it had been even hotter at lunch time.

As I said, it’s still been hot today, but a strong wind in my face or on my front left shoulder has kept the temperature bearable.

This hotel is in the centre of Nijmegen and it’s in the Grote Markt, so I’m not expecting to get a quiet night. I’ll go out a little later and take some photos.

I also saw my first windmill although it was still in Germany. There will be many more in the next couple of days.”

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day fourteen: 1 july: nijmegen to woudrichem

91 km distance, 126 m total going up

“The 13th day of cycling (14 including my rest day) lived up to being unlucky.

I left the hotel in Nijmegen at 7am thinking I would have a relatively easy day. The temperature had dropped and was good for cycling. However the wind was really strong, I would think about 25 to 30 km an hour and full in my face. It was a battle all day.

The route took me on dykes along the side of the Waal, then through fields, then back along the river as I approached Woudrichem.”

“When I located my “hotel”,the Kazemat Zuswas, it turned out to be a former bunker where they stored weapons. The place was locked up and luckily a guy opposite arrived in his car. When I asked him, he told me the hotel was closed on Mondays. I couldn’t believe it! I said to the guy that I was booked in and I already paid. He phoned the owners and was given instructions of how to obtain the key and showed me my room door.

I’ve also talked a couple of shots of the inside to give a flavour of the accommodation, the hotel Karel in Nijmegen was noisy but a great atmosphere, the Kazemat Zuswas deathly quiet. I saw no one, it was lucky I had been invited for a meal at Marianne and Stephan’s so I walked to their house at 6 pm.

(Terry met Marianne and Stephan on the Northumberland coastal cycle path earlier this year)

It was a good evening and I didn’t get away until nearly 10, so I was pretty tired.

This place is self catering so luckily Marianne gave me some bread and cheese for my breakfast.”

  • the Kazemat Zuswas in all its glory.

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day fifteen: 2 july: woudrichem to hook of holland

91.27 km distance, 126 m of up

“I left the Kazemat Zuswas at 7am, still not having seen or spoken to anyone. What a way to run a business.

The wind had dropped and the surface was good, so I made it to the first ferry at Kop van Eland in good time. From there I cycled to Dortrecht, where I was to take a 2nd ferry. At the water front there were 3 or 4 different docking points and several cyclists waiting. It was the Water Bus stop.

You could take a bus to any one of several different destinations. I found I could take a bus along the river straight to Rotterdam so I paid my 4 euros senior fare and had a 45min ride. It gave my old legs a bit of a rest after the effort of yesterday. I think it saved me about 20 km (so knock off 20 from the stats figures!)”

“Getting out of Rotterdam was a bit of a struggle, however with a slow speed and keeping alert, I finally found the route which largely followed a main road. I arrived at the hotel at 1.38 to find a notice saying they open at 2 o’clock, so I pedalled to the beach where I had a cup of coffee and a cheese sandwich in a crappy restaurant before returning to the hotel. I asked how early I could get breakfast and was told 6.30.

(He might have just cycled the entire route of the Rhine, but now he’s got to get home! His plan is to cycle on to Ijmuiden and get the overnight ferry to North Shields)

I’ve checked the forecast for tomorrow and there is a northerly wind of 24 km/h so another slog is inevitable. I looked at the ferries from Ijmuiden and decided not to book one for tomorrow.

I will start at just after 7 and see how far I get. On the off chance I make it all the way, I’ll see if I can get on a boat without prebooking. However, I’ll probably cycle to Haarlem and then complete the journey to Ijmuiden on Thursday. It means I’ll be able to book a ferry tomorrow evening…

So the journey is ending, I’ve had a bit of everything: very pleasant company, been soaked in downpours on two days, been boiled, fried and roasted and battled with some fearsome wind.

My old legs deserve a rest!!!”

That’s a total of 1,372 kilometres cycled,
with a total of 3,243 metres of ascent
over 14 days.
Phew, time for a sit down.

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One blether about “terry’s trip down the rhine 2019”

too late, no more blethering allowed on this post!