September 2017
One man
One bike
EuroVelo 7, aka the Sun Route
Start: Mantova, Italy

After the success of the Eurovelo 6, and once the legs had recovered, Terry decided he fancied the look of the EuroVelo 7.  The full route starts at the northernmost tip of Norway at NordKap and continues south through Norway, Finland and Sweden to Denmark, which is where Terry started the first leg of his bike trip.  Although the idea of cycling through the Scandi countries sounded attractive, he realised that accomodation enroute would need to be a tent and his 80 year old bones are too used to a bed nowadays!  So Copenhagen was his start point, and he set off heading south through Germany, the Czech Republic and Austria. Now he’s getting ready to cycle the final leg through Italy and once again he has promised to send updates every couple of days to enable us to follow along, so keep checking in for the latest news.

Sunday 10th September.
Montova to Bologna. 110km. Weather wet and windy, not the best for cycling.

“Miserable weather, rain and wind on my left shoulder, about 110 km and I thought I would catch the train from Mantova to Bologna but when I left the hotel the rain had eased so I decided to ride. There were several times during the day when I thought I had made the wrong decision. As I was nearing Bologna the traffic built up despite it being 4.30 on a Sunday. Hadn’t a clue of the whereabouts of the hotel I’d booked and my Tom Tom was telling me to turnaround. I passed a hotel and I asked if they had a room, they were full but the guy looked up my hotel and gave me exact directions. It was still about 10kms and I finally arrived at 5.30 shattered. This part of the ride was pretty boring, nothing of worth to record, flat and no nice views.”

Monday 11th September.
70km. Weather still wet.

“Today was a bit of a nightmare leaving Bologna, Monday morning traffic and not knowing how to find the right way.  After asking 2 or 3 people was given good directions and was on my way.  There are 2 routes, a scenic route which is hilly and a SS road.  SS stands for super strata which is a main road.  A dark overcast sky and light rain meant there was no view so I peddled along the main road which undulated but the ups weren’t bad.  No real good views, cycled just over 70 km with light wind this time helping me.  Arrived at 1.30 much better than yesterday.  Tomorrow will be in Florence however the forecast is for heavy rain at about 11am we’ll see what comes.”

Tuesday 12th September.  Less wet but quite windy.  70 km.

“Tuesday in Sunny Italy, when I started this morning it was light rain and a heavy, blustery wind in my face. I had 30kms of uphill to Pistoia then another 40kms to Florence. The first 20k were uphill until I arrived at a tunnel where I stopped to switch on my rear light. It was quite a long tunnel and I was pleased to get to the other end. Then I had a descent for about 10 or 12kms all the way to Pistoia. It was similar to the descent from the Joux Plan.
Getting through Pistoia was hard, plenty of signs for the Motorway to Florence but the ordinary road wasn’t signed at all. Luckily a local cyclist came up to me at a set of traffic lights and he took me round several back streets and put me on the right road.
The road was flat and with the change of direction the wind now helped, I stopped for a couple of sandwiches and then rode another 27 to 30 km to Florence.  The rain stopped and the sun came out!!!!!
I’m hoping things are going to improve from now on,  we’ll see what tomorrow brings…”

Wednesday 13th September.  Sunny!  88km.

“The sun has shone all day, whamazing!!
I left the Together Florence hotel at 8.45 and although it was sunny it was cool so my jacket was on. I decided to take to the hills instead of going along the main road. I should have known better when I had to pass through villages with names like Volturo etc. They are extinct volcanoes so you climb up one side and freewheel down the other side. By the time I was ready for lunch I had arrived at Inica and could use the main road for the remainder of the ride.It was a lot more interesting today, more rural and some big views of rolling Tuscan hills.
I ended up cycling 88.5 kms and climbed 880 meters, it would be a lot easier without the panniers.”
Thursday 14th September. Arezzo to Chiusi.  67 kms.

“I stayed in Arezzo in a B&B last night (Wednesday).  I’d arrived mid afternoon and found the main square where La Terrazza was without difficulty, however no La Terrazza. At this point I was looking for a hotel. Eventually I phoned and was told to go inside an arcade and I would see the notice. After locating the entrance discovered it was on the4th floor of apartment block. Well can you imagine the hassle I had getting my bike up there.
It took me a long time this morning to find my way out of Arezzo , the route was down the side of a canal almost all the way to Chiusi. The cycle track was gravel so remembering my 3 puntures last year on this type of track I elected to go on the road. It was a bit of a navigational problem but asking locals I eventually found Chiusi. I was booked in at a place called La Badiola but could I find it no!! Chiusi is at the top of a hill and I went up and down 3 times looking for this place. I asked 3 locals and they couldn’t tell where it was. I gave up and stayed in an Alberto. No meals but the room was comfortable.
There was no wifi as well as no food!!!! Distance was 67 kms and 564mtrs of climbing.”

Friday 15th September.  Chiusi to Orvieto. 51 km.

“Today finding my way out was a doddle. I was riding to Orvieto.  Navigation was easy but there were a couple of big hills. The 1st was about 8kms long but was quite steady not too steep. I just arrived at the summit when a guy with a fully loaded bike was pushing it up the other way . I stopped to ask him where he was going.  Manchester was the answer, he had cycled from Sicily.  He was Italian and I assumed from Sicily , he said the hills further south are a lot harder than here. Great, I’ll see how I get on. He said his legs were tired, I know the feeling.  I arrived in Orvieto when the clock was striking noon, found the hotel and although the room wasn’t ready they allowed me to go into the staff toilets to wash and change.  I went out for a couple of sandwiches and for a wander.  Orvieto is a old town, the cathedral was built in 13th century and I ever managed to take a few photos.  Distance today was 51 kms and 649 mtrs of climbing.”

Saturday 16th September.  Orvieto to Civita Cassellana.  85 km, 791 m of climbing.

“This morning I engaged my brain.  Before I left Orvieto I switched my tomtom on and dialed in the 1st village, it took me straight there without any hassle. Today’s problem was a head wind, in my face all day. I’d received an email from this hotel I’m staying in tonight saying that a religious procession was taking place and I would not be able to get into the hotel after 6pm. Needless to say I pressed on, stopped for a 10 mins break had a banana and a Ma Baker bar and got to the hotel at just after 2pm.
I thought I’d take some photos of the procession, I was told it would start at 6.  Nothing happened, then 6.20, still nothing. The next information I got was 7pm, lots of sightseers but no procession. I gave up at 7.25 having booked a table for dinner at 7.30.
The photos show the cathedral where it would have started with people gathering but no action.
I’m in the restaurant now hearing lots of bells but sorry I’ve missed the pomp and circumstance.  A Dutch couple with bikes booked in this afternoon, they are going to Rome tomorrow as well, they are carrying tents so I suspect they may be a little slower. I’ve looked at the forecast and it doesn’t look too bad, a west wind which could be helpful or not , better than today, let’s hope.”

Monday 18th September.  Update:
Wi-Fi access has been dodgy the last couple of days so we’re behind on the daily posts, but Terry’s still going well and is now south of Rome.  Over the next couple of days he will skirt around Naples (a potentential navigational nightmare) and end up at Salerno where he will rendezvous with one of his cycling buddies, Chris.  They will attack the hills of Southern Italy together!
Daily posts will resume as soon as technology allows…….

Sunday 17th September. Civita Castellana to Rome.  67km, 490 m of climbing.

“I’d booked a hotel in south of Rome so would make it easier to exit. Luckily it was a Sunday so traversing Rome wasn’t too bad, it’s a big city but I used the TomTom on my phone and I found the hotel 20 km later. I would have been in all sorts of trouble without this app.
The hotel was in a park, had an outdoor pool and not very busy.”

Monday 18th September.  Rome to Sabaudia  97 km, 556 m of climbing.

“Day 9 of cycling.  I left Rome in heavy traffic which was with me for about 1.5 hours.  Eventually the traffic eased and I cycled up to Castel Gandolfo, thought I may see the Pope but all I saw was the lake which is the crater of an extinct volcano and then the walls of the pope’s summer palace.  Lots of tourists walking along I presume to the entrance.  I carried on to a place called Velletri and then descended to the plains and had a flat ride to Sabaudia.  I’d booked a hotel named Hotel Casino and was dreading that it would be noisy but it proved to be quiet, however the restaurant was closed and I had to walk into the center of town to find dinner.
I was starving so left at 6pm found a restaurant but they didn’t open until 7.30, I walked on but nothing was open.  I went back to the original place and said I’d have a beer but that I’d just cycled from Rome and was starving. He brought the beer and a huge bowl of crisps which I wolfed down. At about 7 they made a meal for me which was delicious.
They got a good tip, I walked back to the hotel and collapsed into bed!”

Tuesday 19th September.  Sabaudia to Castel Volturno.  110 km, 379 m of climbing.

“Today I’ve been cycling along the side of the Mediterranean!!!!! A few ups and a few tunnels where I stopped and switched on my rear light.  A couple of guys passed me on bikes and they had no lights but there were too many cars to risk it.  They were obviously locals but better them than me.  Very easy journey today although long it was not hilly at all.  I stopped at a place called Scauri for lunch and was eating a sandwich when a young lad started chatting, last year he went to London and worked as a waiter in an Italian restaurant but left when Brexit happened.
Got to the hotel at 3pm and was informed that dinner was at 8pm. I’ll die of starvation. Luckily I’ve got a couple of bananas.
After tomorrow which will be a nightmare navigation I’ll meet up with Chris and then it’s only the hills that will worry me.”

Castel Volturho to Salerno.  116 km

“I woke up at 2am with thunder and lightning, a real storm raging. It didn’t last long but once I was awake my mind couldn’t rest thinking about how I was going to find my way to Salerno. When I went for breakfast I asked the manager for the best route. He looked at me as if I was mad,  “it’s too dangerous, too many cars”. After I had my breakfast I asked him to see how much it would cost for a taxi. A phone call later he said 140 euros. I confirmed it was OK and a Porsche 4×4 duly arrived. It took just over one and a half hours on very busy roads mainly motorways. He dropped me at the station and I located a hotel 100 yards away. I’ll be meeting Chris off the 6 o clock train so it’s worked well. It’s also given me a rest day, hopefully I’ll be a bit fresher tomorrow.
I’ve taken a couple of photos showing how complex the roads are. I’ve marked Castel Volturno and Salerno with arrows. The other photos are the sea front at Salerno.
Tomorrow the route is straightforward and not very much of ups, however I’ve warned that the road is narrow so keep well to the right.”

Thursday 20th Sept.  Salerno to Acciaroli.  82 Km, 458m of climbing.

“A slow start this morning,  Chris arrived at 6.15 last night and I met him at the station.  We assembled his bike then crossed the square to the hotel.  By the time he’d showered it was 8pm.  We finally went to find a restaurant which took another hour.  It was after 10 when we finished eating, far too late for me.

This morning it was 10 before we started,  Chris said he wasn’t feeling too good and he wasn’t up to his usual speed, despite it being a fairly relaxed day.
We cycled past an Ancient Greek settlement at Paestum where the ruins of the temples are the best in Italy, they predate the Roman ruins, they were amazing.  We continued on cycling along the Mediterranean coast and the views were stunning.  Lunch was at Agropoli, Chris likes a proper meal whereas I usually have a sandwich. We spent nearly 1.5 hours over lunch, finally arriving just before 5pm.  We faced a longer and harder route the following day and so planned to start at 8.30.
We stayed in a 4 star hotel with a big crowd of Germans, looked as if they were on a Saga trip, some Russians, and 3 ladies from Scotland.
Realising he might be a bit under the weather and not relishing the idea of a harder day, Chris said at dinner he may take the train tomorrow.”

Friday 22 September.  Acciaroli to Sapir.  94 km, 1291 m of climbing.

“This is Friday and my 13th day of the trip, and unfortunately it’s lived up to being an unlucky day.  This morning Chris decided he was going by train to Sapir.  This was a 15kms trip to a small town where he could catch the train.  We got going at 8.30 and we parted company a couple of kilometers before the station.  I turned left and went about 3 km heading for a little village called Cerosa.  I stopped at a small agricultural shop, 3 men were talking and I asked if I was on the right road, they stood round the front of my bike and as I held the map one gave me really good directions. I set off and after about 4kms I had to turn right.  I looked down to check my Garmin to find it was missing.  It hadn’t fallen off, I would have seen it, so I can only assume one of these guys lifted it.
I decided just to carry on thinking I would join the SS road at Cerota. It was 22km of climbing up to the SS road and when I got there it had been upgraded to an Autostrada, no bikes!!!!!!!
I had to take a different road, longer and many more hills. I finally made it to Sapir by 3pm with tired legs.  We’d arranged that Chris would find a hotel and I would phone him. I got my phone out to find it was dead, I’d obviously left it on and the battery had run out.  I went into a coffee shop asked for a latte and asked if they would charge my phone.  No problem, after 15mins there was sufficient power and I found a message from Chris giving the hotel where he’d booked, it was only 100 m away.
When we caught up Chris said that he was going to take another train tomorrow but to go to Tropea which is 3 days cycling from here. He really is not well, poor guy, and should have stayed at home.
I’ve another big day tomorrow, less distance but another 1210m of ups so it will be another prompt start. I’ll phone Chris tomorrow afternoon to see how he is.”

Saturday 23 September.  Sapir to Diamanti.

“Chris was taking the train to Tropea which is 3 cycling days from Sapir.  My destination was Diamanti.  After saying my goodbyes to Chris and making sure he would contact me this afternoon to discuss plans if he felt no better, I left at 8.45. I cycled up for 6kms before I met a road block.  I lifted the bike over the barrier and continued for another 2 km to be met by a man in some uniform with his van blocking the road.  He was telling me to go back, I asked what the problem was and he said that there had been a rock fall.  I asked if I could walk through but no he would not allow me to proceed.  I returned to Sapir and considered my options, I could take to the hills again, up to Lagro Negro and take another SS road which after yesterday’s experience I was unsure of or take the train. I opted for the train so I returned to the hotel where Chris was still in his room. After a quick pack we cycled to the station and caught a train. I arrived here at 11.27 and am staying at a hotel on the sea front costing 50 euros a night.  I’m sure they must be more expensive in the season. It’s a beautiful place, although there is only meat on the menu tonight, so I’ll have to go out for my dinner.
This enforced rest day will be good for my old legs although I’m not feeling too bad. I’ve 4 more reasonable days until I cross over to Sicily, then 3 days to Palermo.
The hardest part is done.”

Sunday 24th September.  Diamanti to Amantea.  68 km, 519 m of climbing

“Left Diamanti with my jacket on, there was light rain.  I caught up with an older guy who was out for a Sunday spin, he tucked in behind me and we pedaled along for about an hour.  I had said to him where I was going and as we approached junctions he shouted instructions. When the 1st of many tunnels came up he warned me and then said his goodbyes and peeled off.  I stopped to switch on my rear light and was pleased I did as the tunnel was over 2 kilometers long.  There were several more, none of which were as long.
This part of the coast is nowhere near as nice as the last few days, all the small towns and villages are poor, the places are dirty and the sea front is not at all interesting.
I arrived in Amantea at 12.10, thinking as I came in “is there a hotel?”
I asked a couple of times and eventually found a beautiful 4 star which is only 65 euros b&b.  I’ve had some lunch and was told there was a wedding reception at 2pm.  I’ve taken a photo of the brides bicycle and expect to have her company tomorrow. 😉
Tomorrow will be another easy day with about 88 km and not much climbing.  I’ll catch up with Chris, see how he is and make plans for the next 2 days which will include getting the ferry to Sicily from Reggio for the last 3 days of cycling.”

Monday 25th September.  Amamtea to Vibo Valentia.  68km,  732m of climbing.

“I should have cycled to Tropea today however it was wet when I started and I had wind against me. I was on the SS18 which is a road that goes all the to Reggio do Calabria.  Chris had gone to Tropea by train and had been there for 3 days. As I neared the turn to Tropea it would mean losing height and then climbing back up again tomorrow.  My old legs are now tired so I decided to stay on the SS18 to Vibo Valentia. Like all these towns it sits on the top of a hill so up I pedaled, the hotel was at the the top of the town, so it seemed the climbing went on for ever. However I thought I would feel the benefit tomorrow!”

Vibo Valentia to Palmi.  55km, 506m of climbing.

“I saved 5 km and more importantly over 400 m of climbing by coming to Vibo Valentia last night.  Today’s route looked straightforward,  I got to Rosarno where the signposting through the town wasn’t clear.  Sure enough, the signs that I picked up led me to the motorway.  I had to take a big deviation and finally found myself back on the SS18.  I entered Palmi at 12.30, but it took another half an hour to find a hotel.  This place styles itself as a grand hotel, but it’s not a patch on the one at Amantea.  The amount of rubbish and fly-tipping in Italy is horrendous!  I thought I had taken a photo of it to show you but who knows where it is ….

Tomorrow I go to Villa San Giovanni, where I’ll meet up with Chris and then get the ferry to Sicily.  Nearly there!!!!”

Wednesday 27th September.  Palmi to Villa San Giovanni.  36 km, 381 m of climbing.

“Left the hotel in Palmi and had to face going up a hill, thought it would level out round the corner.  The hill went up and up for about 12 kms, finally got to the top and saw the villages far below, on my right was the sea and on the left was the motorway way up in the air crossing a gorge.  My heart sank thinking I would have another huge ascent. The coast here is dramatic and I hope the photos I’ve taken  do it justice.  The decent was spectacular and when I reached the village there was no climbing.  The road ran along the shoreline, a few ups but nothing desperate.  I tootled along and reached  Villa San Giovanni at 11 o clock. 
Chris wasn’t arriving by train until 2.20.  I had 3 hours to kill, so I found a coffee shop and stayed there until 12 .15 then had lunch and left the restaurant at just after 2pm.  I cycled along to the ferry station and  waited for Chris to arrive, I phoned him and he was waiting at a different ticket office. We got together and boarded the ferry at a cost of 3 euros and we are now in Messina on the island of Sicily. It started to rain heavily so we got wet finding a hotel. 
My legs are tired, the weather forecast is for rain tomorrow and I think  Chris is a little fed up, so I’ve decided to go to Palermo by train with him tomorrow and see if we can get the ferry to Liverno in the next couple of days.”

Thursday 28th September. Messina to Palermo.
Friday 29th Palermo to Livorno
Saturday 30th Livorno to Mantova

“Last night Chris and I got very wet cycling about 5 kms towards the railway station and finding a hotel about 200 mtrs away. We had to find a restaurant for dinner and it was still raining when we went out at 8pm. The forecast was for rain the following 2 days so at dinner we discussed our options. My legs were tired and I really needed a couple of rest days. Chris was fed up hanging around and the weather was against me. Chris had posted his bike bag back to France from Salerno so he had to return with me to Mantova where the bikes would go in the car. I decided to go to Palermo by train rather than hang around a wet Messina for 2 days and then cycle .

We caught a train which took about 2hrs 45 mins and arrived in Palermo at 2ish.  We went straight to the ferry port hoping to find out when the ferries were sailing, they don’t run a service every day.  We planned to find out when they sailed, then find a hotel and book in for the appropriate number of nights.  The gate to Grimaldi Lines booking office was closed but there was a notice saying it would be open at 5pm. There was also a phone number, Chris rang and was told there was a ferry leaving at 1am and arriving at Livorno at 7pm the following day. I had already looked up the ferries on the web a couple of days earlier and all said leave at 9.15pm and arrive at 6am the following day so I thought that Chris had got it wrong. WE went off to find something to eat and returned at 5pm. At 5.35 a girl and guy turned up, gates were opened and we went to the booking office.  Sure enough there was a ferry at 1am and we booked wondering what we were going to do until we could board.  We found a bar, had a beer, then went for a meal at 7.  At 9pm we wandered back to the port to be told we would be allowed to board at 10.30.

The appointed time arrived and we were allowed on board, we had to cycle up 5 decks and they are pretty steep. We got up to deck 7 and found 4 motor bikes and 1 car there so we parked our bikes against the ships hull behind the motor bikes, unloaded our bags and went to find our cabin on deck 9.  I went to bed while Chris went for a wander.

The sea was like a mill pond, smooth and there was no motion at all, we just had to get through a long, long day. There were plenty of people at breakfast and lunch and I thought a lot must have boarded after I’d gone to bed.  7 o clock finally came and the car doors were opened and I was amazed to see over 50 motor bikes parked 5 columns blocking our bikes. The rest of the deck was filled with cars. The cars got away quite quickly but these bikers were in no hurry, they were messing around fitting various gadgets on their bikes putting on clothing etc.  It was getting dark so I said to Chris I was going to carry my bike over the motor bikes. We put our lights on and left.

By now it was Friday night and we had to cycle into Livorno and find a hotel, the road was very busy, Chris was in the lead and eventually he stopped saying that it was a motorway. There was traffic coming in the opposite direction so I didn’t stop but pointed this out to Chris. We went on and finally found a really nice hotel. We had finished booking in when the original 4 bikers who had boarded before us arrived. They couldn’t believe we had got there first.

Saturday morning after breakfast we left and rode to the railway station which was at the other end of town, we had to ask 3 or 4 times before we found it. The train, the 1st of 5, didn’t leave until 11.17, so again over a hour to wait. We had a coffee and I bought a sandwich for my lunch and at 11.17 we were off.

5 trains later at 5 20pm we arrived at Mantova, rode to the hotel where my car was parked and asked for a couple of rooms. It was full, Anna the receptionist who I’d talked to about leaving the car said she was very sorry and also told us that all of the hotels were full. So we drove up the road for an hour before turning off and finding a place to stay.”

Sunday 1st Oct Back to Samoens

“Breakfast at 8 o clock and then a 4 hours drive back to the valley here where I had to take Chris up to his friends at the very top of Verchaix where he had left his car.  I finally got home at about 2pm and was pleased to be back.
Just a pity I didn’t complete the Sicily 3 days but who knows what I will do next year.”